What an amazing and memorable experience, trekking in Upper Mustang with Nepal Ascent Treks in July 2019. My overall trip was 18 days, from arrival at Kathmandu and departure, with 12 days dedicated to Upper Mustang. Pramod was my guide, and Sujan was my porter. They made sure that all was well and that I was comfortable. The trek was well organized, and in planning beforehand, Sittal would always reply to my emails quickly. It was a unique experience trekking through the breathtaking landscape from Jomsom to Lo Manthang and back, staying in Tibetan-style lodges and hotels, stopping for lunch in small villages and a monastery, passing Chortens and Mani Walls on the way, and visiting monasteries and caves.
This was my second trek with Nepal Ascent Treks -- the first one was Annapurna area Poon Hill late March 2019, with Pramod as guide, and with Sittal planning the itinerary based on our communication. Again I was very happy and very satisfied with the overall experience. From my arrival at Kathmandu to my departure, the assistance and support was great: Pramod met me at the airport both times, and Sittal welcomed me at the hotel (Apsara Boutique Hotel), where I have had lovely stays.
During the Upper Mustang trek, after our late afternoon arrivals on longish days we would have some Nepali snacks and look at the next day’s itinerary – I was always interest in maps. Pramod would make sure I had nice rooms in lodges and would make adjustments based on how we were proceeding, how I was getting used to the altitude, what my preferences were, and so on. For example, on the way to Lo Manthang on our way to Ghami, we took a lovely trail up to a pass after going through Gilling; we then descended on an old dirt road and continued to Ghami, because of my preference to go through Gilling and be away from the bigger road over the pass - so we did this beautiful route instead!
On the way back from Lo Manthang, we took a different route, saw spectacular scenery, stopped at Gompa Monastery for lunch and a visit, and then went by Drakmar on the way to Ghami – amazing colors, caves, and background around Drakmar. On the way back we also visited the Chunngi caves after staying overnight in Sambochen, followed a canyon trail with fabulous views, and had lunch in Samar before continuing to Chunkksung (some people visit these caves on the way to Lo Manthang, but the way back worked better for me). Pramod made sure these special stops worked out for our overall trek, and Sujan was always helpful and thoughtful, too, and both pointed out sights of interest.
A few more details and tips:
-- The 2 days (3 nights) in Lo Manthang, in my view, we're well worth the extra amount and effort. One day we walked to the Caves area and visited them, and the second day was dedicated to exploring more of Lo Manthang and its monasteries.
-- I used water purification tablets as suggested by Sittal and Pramod, an excellent solution. The tablets from a supermarket in Thamel were convenient and easy to use. For me, preparing a couple of Nalgene liter bottles (usually with kitchen tap water) in the evening worked well, in the morning transferring some water to camelbak and starting a new bottle depending on how long it would be to the lunch stop, where I could get more water.
-- Although Upper Mustang is outside of the rain shadow, during the monsoon the flight between Jomsom and Pokhara or the road might be affected, due to the weather. After the trek, when our flight to Pokhara was canceled, Pramod arranged transportation to Pokhara through our hotel in Jomsom, with a great vehicle and excellent driver, so we got to Pokhara as planned and the next day could continue to Kathmandu. Next time I would try to have an extra day or 2 available to return to Kathmandu for my departing flight, and/or to stay an extra day in Pokhara.
-- I had lovely stays at the hotels used by Nepal Ascent Treks with very helpful staff. The Apsara Boutique Hotel in Kathmandu and the Pokhara Batika Hotel were both lovely. The lodges along the way were picturesque and the people running them very hospitable.
Thank you, Sittal, Pramod and Sujan, for such a memorable experience.